If it’s true that we are what we eat, then why not know the story behind the food we consume?
Farmers markets are all different but most of them have a common objective: To improve people’s lives by providing quality food from independent producers directly to the consumer. Whilst organic certification is costly to come by, many suppliers work on a trust basis and not only farm organically, but also avoid toxic additives, promote intelligent food consumption such as fair trade, and try to reduce carbon emissions and boost recycling. Most importantly, as Federico Arce from El Galpón says: “To let people know the story of the food they are eating, it’s important that they know what they are consuming.” Bravo!
There are plenty of markets to be found in and around Buenos Aires, but this week’s Top 5 aims to bring you the Farmers Markets dearest to our hearts.
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Fruit for sale at El Galpon (Photo: Brian Funk)
1. El Galpón de Chacarita
Number one in our Top 5, El Galpón in Chacarita is a hippie market that is both quirky and stylish at the same time. You come in through a free parking area, nestled between old rusty train tracks, to a bright yellow barn, an organic fruit and vegetable allotment and an outdoor barbeque and restaurant serving agro-toxic free meat.
The colourful interior has lime green tablecloths with flower arrangements that compete for your attention against various paintings and posters of The Beatles. Better than all of this, you feel like taking your shoes off and enjoying the positive vibe in a place where everyone smiles and takes the time to chat to you.
Created by former political prisoners, El Galpón is now a cooperative, where stalls all work together to maintain and provide for the space. They even contribute to the creation of homegrown compost to be used in the allotment.
But El Galpón had a rough start. “People didn’t used to want to come here because of the neighbouring slum, and the fact that they couldn’t see what is in here from the street,” says Victoria Angarita, who sells organic coffee from Full City Coffee House. “But now we have home delivery and word has spread about what we do.”
Walking around you will find food that is portioned and wrapped in recycled paper, aromatherapy incense sticks, homemade ice creams, washable and ecological feminine pads and a great variety of organic food. You choose what you want to buy, pay at a common till and collect your purchases at the end. And you can shop happily knowing that a portion of the profits go towards the maintenance of the barn. Just don’t forget to collect your purchases!
Wednesday and Saturday 9am to 6pm. For more information, click here.
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Dietetica at Mercado Bonpland (Photo: Beatrice Murch)
2. Mercado Solidario Bonpland
There are two words to describe this market: community feel.
As you walk in, the sweet aroma of flowers from the florist at the entrance invades your senses and as you glide through stalls selling homemade wine, biodegradable washing powder, natural creams, nuts, granola and more, you can tell the workers are happy to be there.
“This is not just a job,” said Juan Pablo Pereira, one of the vendors from CECOPAF, an organisation that supports small scale agriculture. “This is a positive statement that we fight for better pay and working conditions to all farmers.”
What sets Bonpland market apart from the rest is its support of community projects. One of the shops is operated by a group of volunteers that run the Movimiento Popular La Dignidade, an NGO that works at improving the lives of disadvantaged people.
The sale of handmade clothes in the shop, fundraising events and public funds all help to support four free nurseries, after school tutorials, food charity programmes and an online television channel.
At the far end of the market, a door leads to the adjoining Bonpland Cultural Centre where the NGO works, but also where local gatherings happen. A community room hosts several social activities such as singing and yoga lessons or art and drama workshops, operated on a donations basis for anyone wishing to join in.
Fridays and Saturdays 10am to 8pm. For more information, click here.
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Tofu Pates by Alejandro (Photo: Beatrice Murch)
3. Mercado Natural Punto Verde
Mercado Natural Punto Verde only opened at the beginning of this year and, as the smallest of our selection, satisfies the saying “it’s not size that matters, but what you do with it”.
In this case, it’s a clean, feminine place, and the most holistic of all. The food here is magnificent, from the ready-made mouth watering (flour-free, egg-free, milk-free and fat-free) wraps and delicious wheat-grass juices, to tofu pates and organic whole-wheat empanadas. The homemade chocolates are divine.
Beyond food and a basic fruit and vegetable section, you will also find meditation books, crystals and additive-free cosmetics. Patricia Oulton, who works at one of the stalls, also works with alternative therapies including Kirlian photography diagnostics and bio-energetic massages, which she will happily talk to you about.
This is a child-friendly zone, where kids can play with crayons and sheets of paper provided for them on tables in the middle of the market, and you can shop away.
The space offers clowning workshops from Monday to Thursday.
Fridays and Saturdays 10am to 7pm. For more information, click here.
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Sabe la Tierra at San Fernando station on the Tren de la Costa (Photo: Beatrice Murch)
4. Sabe La Tierra
Hats off to this market: It’s charming and, if you live in the centre of Buenos Aires, the most exciting part of it is the journey to get there. Located in San Fernando train station along the route of the Tren de La Costa that takes you to Tigre – it’s a perfect excuse for a day out of the hustle and bustle of the city.
While sat on the train your eyes will glow at the sight of miniature stations, local parks, children’s playgrounds, traditional restaurants, tree lined avenues, suburban houses and mansions. You’ll either feel like you’re instantly on holiday, or lost in the perfect suburbia of the Stepford Wives.
In my case, as soon as I arrived I’d received invitations to move in with an alternative Christian community, join a yoga class, and sample several different types of organic honey. As a kind of connoisseur, I have to say it was the best I’ve tried from this Top 5!
“Our idea is to take care of our lands and take care of our bodies,” said Pablo Barrio, seller at Sol7 stall.
The market is bigger on Saturdays but you’ll find it less crowded on Wednesdays.
Wednesdays 10am to 4pm and Saturdays 10am to 6pm. For more information, click here.
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The greenhouse and farm at Taller Verde (photo courtesy of Taller Verde)
5. Shop Online Delivery Services
If markets aren’t your favourite way to shop, or you live far from a farmers market but you’d still like to eat freshly produced food with a conscience – not to worry! A selection of websites including Tallo Verde, De la Huerta a su Mesa, and Puente del Sur, sell a variety of products from small, independent local producers and will deliver to your doorstep. The drawback is that you need to allow at least two days for your delivery to arrive, but it’s these two days that enable them to reach farmers directly and get the freshest foods.
Setting up a regular order is a good idea since to care for the environment, most have a minimum purchase amount and operate a rotation system delivering to the different areas of Buenos Aires on different days. Whilst you might get a little lost with the variety of products they have on offer, at least you won’t be short of options.
Some of the websites even feature recipes to help you turn your new non-toxic ingredients into delicious treats.
To shop online or over the telephone, with delivery to your door, we recommend visiting talloverde.com, delahuertaasumesa.blogspot.com or puentedelsurcoop.com.ar
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