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Caligiore vinyard at the base of the Andes (courtesy of Caligore)
Think Argentine wine and the first words that come to mind are malbec and Mendoza. But Argentine wine is much more than the the mass-produced vino de mesa from the 1960s and 1970s. In fact, the quality of wine has become so high that vines of malbec are being exported back to France from where they originated. And a white wine, torrontés – which is grown in the higher altitudes of Salta province – has grown to become another signature grape of Argentine wine. More recently, the country’s pinot noirs from the cooler Patagonia region have earned an international reputation.
The remote location of Argentina’s wine-growing areas – either at the foot of mountains or in the centre of a desert – provides natural deterrent to the dreaded phylloxera and other diseases, and thus reducing the need to use chemicals to fend off the bugs. This positions Argentina ideally to take advantage of the current rush in the wine-making world to produce organic and biodynamic wines.
So what is the difference in production methods? What does organic and biodynamic actually mean? Vines of an organic wine are grown without the use of artificial chemical fertilisers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides. Only yeast naturally occurring in the grape is used to induce fermentation. Biodynamics takes organic farming to a higher, spiritual level. Based on the influence of the universe on life, for example the waning and the waxing of the moon, vines are tended in accordance with an astrological cycle. Combined with harmonising the soil and the vine, the theory is that it improves grape quality.
Sustainable wine production is a current buzz word. For example, the use of composting and the cultivation of plants that attract insects that are beneficial to the health of the vines.
In terms of quality, organic wines can be weaker than traditional wines as they rely on the grape’s natural acidity and yeast to produce alcohol. To compensate for this, wine makers leave the grape longer on the vine to attain higher sugar levels and thus producing a richer style wine with a higher alcohol content. Organic wines are described by some as being more complex, and more balanced.
Studies also highlight heath benefits of organic wines, since the grapes contain twice as much resveratrol, which acts as an antioxidant and provide protection against cancers.
So, here we look at five wine producers who are pioneering organic and biodynamic wine production in Argentina.
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Grapes on the vine at Bodega Colomé
1) Bodega Colomé
Cafayate in Salta province is a relatively new name in the wine world outside of Argentina, and its altitude suits the torrontés varietal. The Upper Calchaquí Valleys, where Colomé is based, is one of the highest vine-growing areas in the world, with its four vineyards at altitudes of between 2,300 and 3,111 metres above sea level. The result is that grapes have higher exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays makes the grape generate a thicker and darker skin to protect itself from the rays. This, combined with the large temperature range at such altitude, produces a higher concentration of balanced aromas, colours and flavours.
Founded in 1831, it is the oldest still-functioning bodega in Argentina, and the original cabernet sauvignon and malbec vines produce Colomé’s top-end wines, with prices starting at $120. Its operations are both organic and biodynamic. Soil is fertilised from the bodega’s farm and vegetable garden (which also supply the in-house restaurant and hotel) while all procedures are planned around the movement of the sun and planets.
Several wines are available in Buenos Aires, and luckily there are cheaper options. Priced at $50 and rated 90 by Robert Parker, the torrontés is easily accessible as even my amateur palate can distinguish the citric orange flavour for which it is renowned.
If you have a chance to visit the bodega, opening hours are 10am to 6pm. For further information, visit their website.
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Bodega Chacra
2) Bodega Chacra
Patagonia is not a region well-known for its wines, but since the mid-1990s increasing numbers of wine entrepreneurs have ventured as far south as 39° latitude and planted new plots. Wine has in fact been produced in the area since the late 19th century, and Pierro Incisa della Rocchetta has carved itself a niche by tapping into this history and purchasing fincas planted with pinot noir in 1932 and 1955. With the addition of newly-planted chardonnay, Chacra takes advantage of the higher soil chalk content and the cooler climate – ideal conditions for both varietals.
Located in the desert of the Río Negro valley, it is situated in an oasis created by channelling snow melt from the Andes. The desert provides a natural barrier to the dreaded phylloxera and other diseases, and the reliable climate allows wines of a consistent quality to be produced year after year.
Rocchetta only uses specific natural and biodynamic winemaking methods. Of his top-rated wine, aptly named Treinta y Dos, only 7,000 bottles are produced annually. It is described as “highly focused”, “fresh and vibrant”, and as having “raspberry characters on the finish”. And this dedication to quality comes at a price – think $140 for the entry level Barda to $460 for the Treinta Y Dos.
For further information, visit their website.
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Golden leaves on the vines at Bodega Krontiras
3) Krontiras
In 2003, Constantinos Krontiras acquired a seven hectare, 80-year-old finca in Lújan de Cuyo near Mendoza with the aim of creating a bodega to showcase Argentine wine overseas and to prove its export potential. He planted new vines in 2001 and the first organic wines were produced in 2009. The bodega is moving towards fully biodynamic production in the next few years.
Renowned winemaker Panos Zouboulis said: “While in Greece with native vines producing wines suitable for every terroir, in Mendoza we have the optimal altitude and climate which, combined with the age of the vineyards, allows us to achieve the best expression of Malbec.”
Krontiras currently produces only 6,000 bottles of Doña Silvina Reserva and 7,500 of Doña Silvina, both malbecs. As newly planted fincas mature, production is planned to increase considerably, in terms of quantity and variety – petit verdot, tempranillo and chardonnay varietals have all been planted and are nearing maturity. Wine production relies totally on gravity flow in the state-of-the-art winery, using the natural slope of the hill to full effect.
Originally producing wine solely for export, his wine is now rated locally and can be found in some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires.
For further information, visit their website.
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Organic Malbec in production at Caligiore
4) Caligiore
Founded in 2001, Caligiore is based in Lújan de Cuyo near Mendoza. Winemaker Gustavo Caligiore places a strong emphasis on sustainability: “Organic viticulture helps preserve the character of old vines in Mendoza. It follows many goals, but environmental sustainability is key. By preserving the fertility of soils, water and air quality through natural equilibriums and biodiversity, the plants are well-nourished and you have a healthy ecosystem.”
Indeed, some of the vines used by Caligiore are more than 75 years old and so the emphasis on longevity is high on the list of priorities. Caligiore wines are regarded as having depth and concentration, and it is one of the few bodegas to produce a range of wines using the bonarda varietal – a personal favourite of mine as it is a perfect accompaniment to a large bife de lomo. And, despite a modest 79/100 rating by Wine Spectator, I find its big smoky flavour to be a relaxing, sit-back-in-your-chair, break to chewing off chunks of carne. Caligiore’s malbecs receive greater praise from critics, consistently scoring over 90 points.
The Caligiore motto is: “The soul of the land turns into wine.” I would add: “And then into a big evening meal out.”
For further information, visit their website.
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Selecting the perfect grapes for Vinecol wines
5) Vinecol
“Man and nature together.” This is the motto of Vinecol, a bodega situated next to the UNESCO Bioshpere Reserve Ñacuñan near La Paz in eastern Mendoza. A project launched in 2000, the finca is 80 hectares in size and is planted with a range of grapes from cabernet sauvignon and bonarda to chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.
Vinecol combine organic growing techniques with the latest in grape-processing technologies. So, while the vines are drip and surface irrigated, and picked and selected by hand, they take advantage of the latest Italian and Spanish machinery to process the grapes, including stem grinders, peristaltic pumps, stainless steel harvest exchangers and pneumatic presses.
It is clearly a process that produces results – its Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 won the gold medal at the 2009 Bio Fach international organic wine competition in Germany, while its Malbec Oak Reserve 2008 won a silver a year later.
Vinecol is also involved in La Paz community projects. They run a school program educating children in the province about sustainable agriculture and deforestation. And they’ve won provincial awards for local agricultural development.
Above the cellar is a banner saying: “Only things that render genuine feelings last the test of time.” With the care taken with the environment and the quality of its produce, Vinecol will be producing organic wine for many years to come.
For further information, visit their website. Prices from $80.
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